If all the nation's leaders had to walk the Camino, five weeks later we would have world peace. - Camino graffiti

Not sure it would work, but maybe a good start. 

Our journey has come to an end. We have our compestella's in hand. 

The last week has been perfect, in every sense. I have heard so many stories about horrible weather and injuries but we have experienced none. I had one day of rain several weeks ago, but otherwise clear sunny days. Prayers answered. We got to Santiago a day earlier than planned, so were able to go to Finisterre. Some by bus, some walking. Before moving on,  we really enjoyed our time in Santiago, and it's beautiful cathedral. 

They hold a noon pilgrim mass which was a remarkable experience. For those of you who have seen the movie, The Way, you may remember the scene in the cathedral with the giant incense burner (censor).  It is about 4 feet tall and suspended from the ceiling by a very thick rope. After being lowered to the floor, incense is added and pulled high in the air and swinging back and forth. As it swings across the transept it almost touches the ceiling and the huge pipe organ is playing full throttle. I am not Catholic, but a very moving service, even in Spanish.  

Our journey to Finisterre began with a bus ride to within 11 miles where we spent the night and then walked in the next morning. I have seen some extraordinary landscape, but this was "radically amazing".  

For most of the walk we either had the ocean in sight or could hear it off in the distance. At the end, we were walking on the beach.

 I think this must be what the Pacific Northwest must look like, only with emerald green water. Made it to Finisterre and then hiked up to the lighthouse, the true end.

                         " 0.0 km "

 We are now back in Santiago with a 5 hour train ride tomorrow and home on Thursday. This has been an adventure of a lifetime. I have met people from all over the world on their own journeys. Ages span the globe as well. They all like being outdoors, eating great food, (and wine), meeting other people We quickly become fast friends. A pilgrim, Paul, reached out to us today on a morning hike to shake my hand. With a big smile, he introduced himself - "I've seen you off & on".  This kinship has been felt over and over on my journey. If the spirit of exploration and  an awakening of your spiritual self sounds inviting, this is the Camino for you.

Buen Camino.

There are no endings, only new beginnings

Update From Katie:

After 3 plane connections, and a very wild taxi ride, I found myself in the streets of Santiago  - (this is to be our end point).  In getting my bearings and looking for a suitable nights lodging and much meandering and getting temporarily lost in the small and winding cobbled streets I eventually arrived 2 blocks from where I started ( though didn't know it ). A small hotel operator offered me a 'deal' on a room across the street for 1/2 the price of the hotel. It was an apt building with 3 rented rooms on an inside courtyard. 

By 6 pm(18:00), I was in a random small bar/ cafe enjoying the Menu del Dia and talking to 2 Irishmen who had just completed their pilgrimage along the "Portugese Way". They had previously done the Camino Frances and on to Finisterre  Everyone has a story. 

The next morning I boarded the Alsa bus to Lugo. In arriving at Lugo, the driver told me the next bus was in "cinco minutos" - who said I don't understand Espaniol !  Was able to get the ticket & board - no problamo. 

The bus system here is quite organized. Seats are assigned, comfortable and are strict on their schedule. That there are several bus companies all using the same bus stations makes it a small challenge.

Arrived in Sarria last Saturday with Joe waiting at the bus stop!  Now we are beginning new adventures again. 

I now have 4 days of walking ~ 6-7 hrs/ day ~ Only 30 km to go. 

With all the paths in life you choose, make sure some of them are on dirt

My journey may be coming to an end, but I have had some wonderful days since my last post. One example is of a day hiking back into the mountains. The path was along a little used roadway with a small but very noisy river about 30 feet below me. As slowly as I was ascending the water was rushing down ten times as fast. The valley walls were so steep that it would take mountain climbing gear to scale them. With the sound of the river, the birds and other wildlife to accompany me, it was a perfect day.

Now Our journey is just beginning.  I met Katie in Sarria on Saturday morning. We spent the day there letting her get acclimated before hitting the trail. Part of doing the Camino is receiving a certificate of completion (Compestela).  In order to qualify, you must walk a minimum of 100K (about 62 miles). Sarria is about 115 k, so a very popular starting point for people with a limited amount of time. Consequently, the number of pilgrims on the trail at times reminds me of walking through the mall. 

We have now walked two days and Katie has done extremely well. We walked 15 miles yesterday and 11 today. As the picture shows, we are now relaxing in our albergue. The two days before Katie arrived the temperature and humidity had begun to rise. However, like the breath of fresh air that she is, the day she got here, the air cooled and we have had two beautiful days on the Camino. We have lots of time - so we are taking our time. 

We expect to be in Santiago on Friday morning. The true end is to go to Finisterre, (end of land)  on the Atlantic. John Adams landed here during the American Revolution on his way to France pleading for help. I don't think that we have the time to hike all the way there and back so will most likely take a bus. This continues to be an amazing experience. There have been days that I will remember forever, almost all good. I have met so many people from all over the world and even with the language barrier, we have formed wonderful friendships. In addition to bringing home lasting memories, I hope I can bring back some of what I have learned about myself and the joy of new friends.

 Buen Camino!

We are speeding up our lives and working harder, in a futile attempt to slow down and enjoy it. - Paul Hawken

Another week has gone by and while a lot has happened, for me, it happens very slowly. We have the slow food movement but I am in the Slow Move Movement. As I have said before, when you experience life one step at a time, your perception is radically different. I normally start before 7 and those first two hours have been a beautiful time of day for me. The sun is coming over the hills and the birds and insects are stirring. The world at peace!

About a week ago I was in Leon, the third  of the four large cities on the Camino. It is much more cosmopolitan than Pamplona or Burgos. The amazing thing about Leon is it's Cathedral. It was built in just 50 years starting around 1250. It is one of the earliest and finest examples of Gothic architecture in Europe, with 125 stained glass windows, (50 feet tall) allowing in beautiful light (even more impressive than St Chappell in Paris). 

After leaving Leon I started to get back in the mountains, nice change from 6 days of walking through not real interesting farming. Entering Gallacia.  My first night in the mountains was in a very small village that was in ruins except for three albergues. I was on the top bunk in the attic and could see out the skylight. This area is covered with wind generators and as I looked out into the black night, I could them all blinking with their warning lights. It was very cool. 

The next day was the most demanding day of the entire Camino.( The very first day in the Pyrenees is a close second). The climb this morning from Foncebadon to the top (alto) was not difficult and very beautiful in the early morning light. I reached the iconic Cruz de Ferro easily.  A tall pole with a small iron cross on top.  And of course, thousands of stones- some painted, some inscribed, but many thousands more just in a pile. 

I had brought a stone which I had carried around in my shaving kit for several years. It originally came from communion service at Montreat, NC during ARW.

  I laid it there in memory of my parents

 and as a blessing to all my family. 

May we all live in a simple peace and harmony. Amen.

  I hiked even higher reaching 4940 feet. All fine and good. However, I had to come down --and did I !! All was downhill, figuratively and literally. The Alto sits at 4940 feet (1505 meters). In roughly a mile and a half, I dropped over 1200 feet. Then another 1200 feet over the next six miles. All in all, a drop of 2900 feet over 10 kilometers.  It made crossing the Pyrenees seem like a picnic. The entire path was just one dry creek bed filled with loose gravel and stones. While not as steep in places, I dropped another 1200 feet over the next 8k.. My legs were like rubber, scratching my plan to go onto Ponferrada.

One of the things I have noticed about this area is the profusion of flowers, especially roses. They are everywhere and so beautiful. I checked and Santiago is a little north of Detroit, Mi. That plus the altitude make for a perfect climate for roses.

I'm nearing the end of my solo journey, just over 125 miles to go. Katie and I will meet on Saturday and we will complete the journey together.

"I go to nature to be soothed and healed, and to have my senses put in tune once more". - John Burroughs

It has been a week since my last post and so much, yet so little has happened. I was 2 days away from Burgos, (pop 170,000), the second of four major cities on the Camino. I have now been there and I must say that after spending so much time in the countryside, the city was a little overwhelming. That was also the one truly rainy day so far. Not hard, but very steady for the 10 mile walk.  I shared a hotel room with two other pilgrims and it was a delight to have a good bed and almost a bathroom to myself.

The Burgos Cathedral is stunningly over the top. I have seen a lot of cathedrals, but this one is huge. In addition to the main cathedral, there are 21 "chapels" around it. Each chapel is more grand than the next, each a small elegant church complete with gold everything, flying saints, etc.

After leaving Burgos I entered an area called La Meseta which is like a high plains complete with dire warnings about how desolate and forbidding it can be.

Fewer villages, less shade and water. What I found instead was the most extraordinary landscape you can imagine. 

The middle of the summer might be a different story, but this time of year it is beautiful. The altitude is about 2500 feet so the air is very dry, making for nice walking.

 I stayed a night at an albergue in the middle of nowhere. The next village was 3 miles away. They had no electricity other than what the generator could produce.  Best of all was that our dorm was heated by a wood fire burning underneath the tile floor. They must have really stoked it well in the evening as it got so hot that you couldn't walk on it without shoes. It is very cold on the Meseta at night, so it felt fine. One woman from Finland remarked that everyone in her country has a sauna in their home but she had never had one in her bedroom.

A good way to stay warm: blankets, new friends and wine.....

It rained that night and the next days' walk was through mud as thick as gumbo. Each step added another pound or two to my boots. It was dryer after about a mile, but a very long mile. I continued to walk through massive fields of grain. Thinking of "Amber waves of grain"  -this it is!

I am now more than halfway through my journey and feel great. I lost the other toenail on my little toe on the right foot, so now I'm matching. Other than that no issues and I have improved my walking pace and distances. Katie arrives in 12 days, but who's counting. I am. I love walking by myself, but also look forward to the company. We will have 6 stages to complete together - about 75 miles. 

I love my journey and would do it again. Any takers for the next time? 
Buen Camino!

Yesterday is history, tomorrow a mystery and today a gift-that is why it is called the present.

Happy Memorial Day or as they say on the Camino, happy Monday. This is the 11th day of my journey and I have gone 151 miles. Only 349 to go!!  After 3 days of walking, I have parsed through the vineyards and am back in the wheat fields. Boy, do the Spanish love their bread. The scenery continues to be breathtaking. Until yesterday I could still see snow-capped mountains which the guidebook says exceed 2300 meters.  I'm not how high that is in feet, but snow is snow. 

Last night I slept in a 12 century Abby, on a mattress, on the floor. A first!!  

There were about 40 of us and we were served a communal meal of salad and pasta; and of course, bread and wine. Before dinner, each nation represented was asked to sing a song. The American contingent sang God Bless America. There were 11 countries around the table. A beautiful experience. 

In two days I will be in Burgos, one of the major cities on the Camino. I continue to do well with only minor issues with my toes. My little toenail fell off this afternoon. TMI. More later from the Camino.

"When you meet anyone, remember it is a holy encounter. And as you see them you will see yourself “

From the Home Base:

Joe did not have wifi today, but was able to share via email some of his day.  I'd like to also share some quotes from that communication.  Today was from Navarette to Azofra (24 km in 7 hrs).

"I left about 7:30 this morning and was stopped by a man just on the outskirts of town. Name was Alex and a resident of Navarette. He asked if I would mind if he walked with me so he could practice his English. We walked together for about 1 1/2 hours until I made a stop for breakfast. Very interesting guy. 51 years old and was a manager of some kind. Says he is writing a book on the Camino. His English was pretty understandable and it was nice to have some company first thing in the morning. Any more would have been total overkill. Never stopped talking, but I did learn a lot about how the Spanish don't pay all of their taxes."

At the end of the day's hike:

"Albergue here is interesting in that it is divided into two bed cubicles with a door. My roomy is an Italian guy who doesn't speak any English. It goes without saying that we have not had much of a conversation."

No new pictures to share yet.  We all have you in our thoughts and prayers.

 

Where's Camino Joe

From the Home Base:

Since Joe posted his pic on the facebook page, there have been requests for more updated location information.

His last stop was reported to be Navarrete.  Elevation 520 m. (1706 ft).  

To follow the stages with elevation info,  check out this link:
http://elcaminosantiago.com/Camino-Santiago-Map-Camino-Frances-33-Maps.htm

A general recap of each days hike:

St Jean de Pied de Port > Roncevalles
Roncevalles > Larrasoana
Larrasoana >  Pamplona
Pamplona > Puenta la Reina
Puente la Reina > Estella
Estella > Los Arcos
Los Arcos >Viana
Viana > Navarrette

He follows signs similar to this:

He has now walked over 200 km (125 mi) and still going strong !!

Our goal should be to live life in radical amazement

A friend sent that quote from a book on nature. A week ago I would have thought,  "that's interesting".  After spending my first full week on the Camino, I am living it. 

Neither photos nor words can adequately describe what I have seen and experienced. This part of Spain is mountainous but also has a very broad valley where enough wheat is grown to supply all the baguettes in Spain. Once I got through the mountains in the first 3 days,I have been in this valley for the last 4 days. Our path takes us right through these huge fields with the path lined with wild roses, poppies, and many other unknown flower varieties.

 In the quiet of the morning, song birds fill the air with their sounds. Around every bend there is a view that leaves me in radical amazement. I have been blessed by great weather, except for the wind. Yesterday it was so strong that at times it was difficult to remain upright. There are many wind farms in this region, for good reason.

 I have met so many people from all over the world and all are fun to talk with and learn from.

A little background: The  Camino is divided into 33 stages. Some are longer than others. Some are more difficult than others.    Most are about 15-17 miles long, taking me from one village to another. Each night I stay in an albergue (hostel). This costs between 5-10€ and are all communal living. That includes sleeping, bathrooms and showers. It has taken a little getting use to, but I don't even think about it now. 
-a link for elevations: 
http://elcaminosantiago.com/Camino-Santiago-Map-Camino-Frances-33-Maps.htm

Tomorrow I will enter the Rioja region, world famous for their wine.

I am loving my journey, one step at a time.

A Pilgrim is a wanderer with a purpose

It is day three of my journey and I have finally returned to Pamplona.  It took me 1 1/2 hours by taxi from Pamplona to St Jean (to my starting point in France) and 3 days to hike back!!! The first day was trail by fire. I climbed 3000 feet in 6 miles then another 1500 feet over 7 miles to 4750 feet. The worst lay ahead when I had come down 2000 feet in 2 miles.  An 8-1/2 hr trip !! - and this was the next day after 24 hrs of modern transportation, minimal rest...  (Reminder to self: should I do this again, recommend starting in Roncevalles)

The last two days have been much less eventful. Just a lot of hours on the trail through some of the most spectacular countryside imaginable. It is amazing how much you notice one foot at a time. I have met people from all over the world and all are fun to walk and talk with. I feel like I'm experiencing the United Nations, only everyone gets along. 

  It's been 3 long physical days. One blister that I had not noticed until it popped. I'm pretty sure from the intense downhill sections. 

More to come soon

Getting Started

El Camino de Santiago de Composetela.... 

translated as 

“The path of Saint James by way of the field of stars (Milky Way)”. 

 Commonly known as “The Camino” or “The Way”.  There are many routes, with the most popular being the Camino Frances. ..and the I one I will be following.

As I begin my journey, I ponder at the magnitude of  traveling for just under 5000 miles in 24 hours; then  spending the next 40 days (and nights) on foot to cover the next 500 miles.

My hiking pilgrimage begins at St. Jean Pied de Port, France.  The link below is a good reference, including an interactive google maps if you want more information or to follow along.

http://elcaminosantiago.com